By Bryan Harrell

Beer Gardens have been a summer tradition in Tokyo, where large groups of people sit at long tables outdoors, hoisting mugs of yellow suds and picking on green soybeans and fried chicken nuggets.

In recent years, though, beer gardens have declined in popularity for a number of reasons. Rooftops of large buildings have now been largely taken over by all manner of equipment, from huge air conditioning units to scaffolding for large signs. Keeping a roof free and clear just for the operation of a beer garden for a few months in the summer is not economical these days. Also, escalating land prices during the bubble years wiped out a lot of great classic places, most notably the 2005 closing of Hanezawa Garden in Hiroo, a sprawling estate of greenery that once offered Tokyo’s best outdoor beer experience.

Perhaps the most significant reason is that beer gardens are, well, just plain old fashioned these days. Back when air conditioning was a luxury, spending a summer evening atop a building, bathed in breeze, was actually more refreshing than huddling in a stifling six mat room with the fan going full blast. For most Japanese, beer gardens recall the Showa Era, which ended almost 20 years ago.

In another 20 years, beer gardens are likely to become extinct. So while there is still time, pack yourself off to a beer garden some evening for a real retro-Japan experience. From the classic 1930s Kudan Kaikan, to the sleek and modern TY Harbor Brewery, you’re bound to find a beer place that fits the bill.

Here are a few suggestions…

Kudan Kaikan Beer Garden
Oh, retro! This beer garden in the classic style from the 60s and 70s, though the building itself dates back to 1934. Still, the place is usually packed, with sporadic entertainment throughout the evening. While the beer is ordinary draft, in regular and black, you can go a bit special with Kirin Braumeister. The edges of the rooftop seating give you great afford views of the Budokan and Imperial Palace moat, while a large awning over one side is a lifesaver in the event of rain. Most people opt for the two-hour all-you-can-drink deal; men pay Y2,100 (Y1,600 on Mondays) and women pay just Y1,600 (Y1,200 on Wednesdays). This includes beer, wine, and other popular drinks. In addition to normal fare such as edamame (boiled green soybeans), fried potatoes and chicken nuggets, there is also heartier fare, such as yaki-niku, from ￥1,000, and even a deluxe meal sets from ￥3,900 per person.

Open daily through Friday, Sept 28th. Open 5 pm to last order at 9:15 (8:15 on weekends and holidays).
1-6-5 Kudan Minami, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo; 03-3261-5521
http://www.kudankaikan.or.jp/restaurant/beer/index.html
Kudan Kaikan is right above Kudanshita station on the Tozai, Hanzomon and Toei Shinjuku subway lines. The building also houses a hotel (singles around ￥10,000, twin/doubles around ￥17,000).

TY Harbor
The spacious outdoor deck makes TY Harbor Brewery Restaurant the pick among the two microbreweries in central Tokyo. Here they brew several different styles of beer － be sure to order the sampler set to find out which one you like best. The pale ale seems to be most popular, but check out the regularly changing Seasonal Beer. They also serve some of the best California-style food in town, brilliant creations of Executive Chef David Chiddo. Be sure to phone ahead to reserve outdoor seating. Also check out their Waterline floating lounge tied up on their own front pier.

Open daily for lunch and dinner, last order 10 pm (9 pm Sun. and holidays)
2-1-3 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo; 03-5479-4555
http://www.tyharborbrewing.co.jp/restaurants/tyh_e.html

D Lounge
If you are looking for a special place in Shibuya with rooftop ambience, you might check out this well-hidden urban hipster joint with a tropical-themed rooftop beer bar with views of the greater Shibuya skyline. On the menu are a number of beers from around the world. Some may find the location convenient; just across the street from Japan’s largest agglomeration of short-term hotels.

Open from 6 pm to 5 am (until 11 pm on Sundays and holidays); call ahead to see if there is space.
Island Creation Tower 9F, 1-22-2 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo; 03-3770-0008
http://www.d-lounge-shibuya.com

Trocadero House Sky Bar
Where else but in Funky Shimokitazawa would you find a place like this? A normal shopping street building has been turned into four floors of bistro/wine bar/live music/rooftop bar fun. From the Sky Bar on the 4th floor, you can enjoy a great view of the skyscrapers in Shinjuku, six stops away on the Odakyu Line. Open daily

Open daily from 6 pm to 5 am; call ahead.
3-30-3 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo; 03-3467-1991
http://www.trocadero-house.com

Fussa-no-Biirugoya
This charming outdoor brewery restaurant offers one of the most pleasant outdoor beer drinking experiences in Tokyo. It’s located on the grounds of sake brewery Ishikawa Shuzo, who also brews Tama-no-Megumi beer. Along with several varieties of their extremely fresh and clean-tasting beers, the restaurant serves great meat and fish dishes, pizza, salads and more. A 12-minute walk from Haijima station, on the Ome line four stops Tachikawa. Also served by the Seibu Line from Shinjuku and Ikebukuro.

Open daily from 11:30 am to 10 pm (summer hours); call ahead on weekends.
1 Kumagawa, Fussa City, Tokyo; 042-553-0100
http://www.tamajiman.com/english/koya.html

Shonan Beer / Trattoria Mokichi
On the other end of the greater Tokyo area is this lovely brewery restaurant two stops from Chigasaki on the Shonan Coast, past Kamakura. Trattoria Mokichi is mainly an Italian-style restaurant with a Japanese-style interior and comfortable outdoor seating. It is on the site of old-line sake brewer Kumzawa Shuzo, which in 1997 began brewing beer. The brews are collectively branded as Shonan Beer, and are headed up Bitter, Ruby and Liebe (pale, amber and dark ales). When paired with the superb wood-oven pizzas and other well-crafted dishes at Trattoria Mokichi in the Shonan Beer complex, the result is sublimely satisfying.

Open weekdays from 11:30 am to 3 pm, and 5 to 10 pm, weekends from 11:30 am to 10 pm.
7-10-7 Kagawa, Chigasaki-shi, Kanagawa; 0467-52-6111
A seven-minute walk from Kagawa station, on the JR Sagami Line, two stops from Chigasaki (Tokaido Line) and six stops from Ebina (Odakyu Line).
http://www.kumazawa.jp

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Tags: beer, beer garden, japan, nama, Tokyo

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